Wednesday, January 26, 2011

I've never felt so white in my life...

We've moved on from Pretoria to Soweto and what a change it's been.  A move from a rich white city to a poor black one wreaks havoc on your heart.  But I wouldn't change it.  It has been so interesting to see history from both sides in the last 2 weeks, to hear two different perspectives on the same topics, to meet people who have lived through both sides of Apartheid and to see the reverberations of such a huge part of history.

And it's true... I've never felt so white in my life.  It's actually been a little uncomfortable at times, walking through parts of Soweto in a large group of well-off white people 'gawking' at what we see.  But I'm changing as I experience this and I'm excited to see what sort of fire I come home with. 

The move from Pretoria to Soweto doesn't mean things have slowed down at all, in fact, they've gotten busier! 

We arrived in Soweto in time for church on Sunday morning, and it was so different from church back home.  And yet no different at all, just a building filled with people worshipping God.  The pastor spoke a bit louder, that's all :)  Afterwards we stayed around for a braai and to play with the kids.


playing hair dresser at church
Monday started with a tour through Soweto - it's unbelievable to think that people today, in the 2011, live in such squalid conditions.  Not all of Soweto is impovershed, a lot of work has been done since the end of Apartheid, but it still gave me a lot of food for thought.  

Kliptown

We also visited the Hector Pieterson Memorial.  On June 17, 1976 the government tried to enforce a new law whereby math and science would be taught in Afrikans.  To the black students, this was the straw that broke the camel's back.  They organized a peaceful protest, but as things go, it escalated into a violence conflict.  A small boy, Hector Pieterson, was caught in the middle and killed.  The memorial is heartbreaking, but such a tribute to a people who fought so hard to be treated like humans.  Again, South Africa is changing me, how could it not?


'To honour the youths who gave their lives in the struggle for freedom and democracy'
 The next stop of the day was much more fun: Soccer City!  I may not be the biggest soccer fan, and was no devout follower of the World Cup, but it was pretty neat to walk through the stadium.

leaders in the change room

about to charge onto the field to score the game winning goal!

group shot!  even though, technically, we weren't allowed on the pitch :)
 The next day, after a few lectures that really provided another viewpoint on apartheid, we went to the Apartheid Museum.  Incredible.  There is so much to it, so many twists and turns into darkness... And such an incredible rise out of it.

the 7 pillars of the consitution outside the museum

segregated entrance
It's been on heck of a week, and it's only halfway done!

Cheers,
Sandy

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Week 1: Pretoria

We've been in South Africa for a week now, and I just love it!  Pretoria has been a blast, and although we're already all longing for the coast and the ocean, we've had some incredible adventures and experiences already.

Our very first stop of the week was at UNISA (University of South Africa) - the largest correspondance university in the world.  They have some 250 000 distance ed students!  We were treated to a lecture on Afrikaner History, and I just couldn't get enough.  South Africa is fabulously interesting - it's like being back in Germany for the 20th aniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.  It's history I haven't learned about in school, and I get to experience it firsthand.  Fabulous!

everyone at UNISA
 Afterwards, we went to the Voortrekker Monument.  Around the time when the Brits showed up in SA, the Afrikaner people went on a 'Great Trek' into SA's interior, looking for land to call their own.  There was a particular battle, in which the folk prayed for God to grant them victory.  If he did, they would make a huge monument in tribute.  Thus the Voortrekker Monument. 

Mimi & I outside the monument looking over Pretoria
 Then we decided to have a little fun...

Aaaaaahhhhhh!
 Our next stop on the tour was the Klapperkop Fort.  I'm not entirely sure what went on here, but a battle for sure.  And now they have a really sweet tree growing in the middle of the yard:

group shot!
 On Tues. Jan 18th (the following day) we had another lecture about Afrikaner culture.  Willie was a great speaker, and brought lots of memorabilia to show us.  Gold coins, a map of SA drawn in the 1500's, duelling pistols, a flintlock rifle... And there were more guns to been seen when we reached the Diamond Hill battlefield.

don't be fooled by the smile... enemies beware!
 We then moved on to the University of Pretoria for a lecture on the Truth and Reconciliation Comission.  Our lecturer was personally involved in making it happen and was good friends with Archbishop Desmond Tutu (wow!).  Our last stop of the day was the Sammy Marks House - he was a fabulously rich entrepeneur in SA at the turn of the 20th century.  His house is exactly as it was when he died, which was really neat (and beautiful) to see, but we weren't allowed to take any pictures.

Thursday was a blast as well.  We started the day bright and early (I'm not kidding, my alarm went off at 4:40am!) to hop on the Gospel Train.  Each morning there are hundreds of black people who commute into the cities for work.  In some of the carriages there are church services that go on.  They have a preacher and everyone else joins in with singing and dancing and percussion (they are incredible... seriously!).  It was the best start to an early morning I've ever had. 

Afterwards we went back to the U of P, this time to the music department, for a drumming workshop.  We spent a couple hours banging around on djembe.  SO MUCH FUN!!! 


Next stop in our busy schedule: Parliament.  That folks, is where Nelson Mandela worked on a daily basis.  They're lovely buildings, but I enjoyed the market out front better.  They had all sorts of tables set up for people to sell their wares at - it was hard to say no!

girl time in the Parliament gardens
 This week has been what we Outtatowner's call a homestay.  For the duration of the week we live with families in Pretoria; a few students in each house.  It's an incredible opportunity to get a real feel for life in the country as well as make some wonderful friends.  On our way to our host families the other night, Raf, Steve, Mimi and I stopped at a little park to see if we could catch any wildlife around.  There were zebra's galore!  One was even pregnant!  And quite a few ostriches as well.

eep!  a zebra!
Friday was lovely and chill -  after such a long day we were all ready to relax.  The major event of the day was heading to the Lion Park.  Baba (our bus driver - he's amazing!) drove us through the park full of lions, zebras, cheetahs and hyenas and then (this is the ridiculously cool part) we went to the petting zoo, where we spent a few minutes each cuddling with the lion cubs.  And while you were waiting, you could go feed the giraffe.  It may not appear so, but they have really slimy, raspy tongues! 

Needless to say, I was a little snap happy...




soooo cute!


eep it's trying to eat me!!
And that's all for now folks.  It's a free day with the host families today - we're going to have a braai later (that's a SA barbeque) and then we head to Soweto on Sunday.

Lots of love,
Sandy

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Welcome to South Africa

Hey Everyone!  I'm currently sitting outside... and it's 20 degrees.  Jealous yet?

It's been one heck of a journey getting down here, but stepping out of the airport saying: "I'm in Africa right now..." was so worth it.  We left Winnipeg on the 11th and flew over to Toronto - and for all of those who know how much I love Big Bang Theory this should make you smile: I sat next to a theoretical physicist!

It was smooth sailing getting our group and our luggage checked in at the airport, but the first bump hit at Pearson.  We were heading over to our next gate and Raf told everyone to get out their next boarding pass.  Steve (my co-worker) and I looked at each other, because neither one of us had another boarding pass.  Just Winnipeg to Toronto!  So we had to exit out of the airport, head to the Lufthansa desks, print our next 2 boarding passes and check back through customs.  Not a huge hitch, just a little annoying.  It turned out to be a blessing in disguise, since, as we rounded the corner to walk up to the desk I got hit by something hugging me and calling me a liar all in one go.  Holly had come to the airport to say hello to those flying out of Toronto (and I had told her the day before that I wouldn't see here because we didn't have time to come out and check back in.  Hooray for life's little surprises!

Toronto to Frankfurt was another smooth, albeit long flight.  I don't sleep well on planes... which was great when we landed at 9am and I hadn't slept in some 24 hours.  But it was just fantastic being back in Germany.  I loved being able to speak German again and I managed to eat just about everything on my list.  First stop of the day: a cafĂ© to delve once more into the deliciousness that is German bread!  Mmmm.

After a quick nap at the airport, we took off on the last leg of the journey: Frankfurt to Johannesburg!  A late night departure had us landing at 10:00 am in South Africa.  It was the day that just wouldn't end!  Luckily enough, all our luggage showed up, so we hopped on a bus (driving on the left too!!) and drove over to Heronbridge - the retreat centre we're doing orientation at.

It's just lovely here in South Africa - green, warm and full of bird-song.  Not that I was aware of any of it until the second day we were here.  I don't think I've ever been that jet-lagged in my life!  At dinner I couldn't even remember what hand I normally hold my knife in.

These past couple days have been great for hanging out, catching up on what happened over Christmas, learning to breathe through my nose again (goodbye allergies!), and filling everyone in on what's going to happen this semester.

But the highlight so far?  Driving over to the mall.  Let me tell you... it's really really weird shifting with your left hand.  And I couldn't find my blinker to save my life.  But I had a really really clean windshield!



all chipper as we head out of Winnipeg

loosing steam in Frankfurt

bus time!! (this is how we travel around SA)

on our last legs at Heronbridge (can you tell we're exhausted?!)

group Rock, Paper, Scissors with a twist